Fiberglass sinks in Phoenix, AZ are long-lasting and attractive, but they can be tough to keep clean. Acids, chemicals, and other abrasive cleaning materials and practices can damage fiberglass. If you’re dealing with stains or hard water, this can be a big pain!
Fiberglass can become dull, dirty, and stained with time. This is due to the fact that it is made of a composite material that is easily scratched. The more scratches on your sink, the simpler it is for stains to penetrate and become stuck in the little crevices. When cleaning a fiberglass sink in Phoenix, AZ, you’ll need to be particularly careful, but the pro recommendations below will help you extend its life. If you’ve tried everything and still can’t get the results you desire, it could be time to refinish your sink instead of replacing it. For more information on how to rejuvenate your fiberglass tub or sink, contact the experts at A-1 Porcelain & Fiberglass Service Co., L.L.C.
When scrubbing your sink, use caution because too much acid and pressure might harm the material. Here are some ideas to get you started:
- Scrub with baking soda and warm water: Dampen a soft cloth or sponge and sprinkle baking soda all over it. Scrub the sink with a medium-pressure scrubber to get rid of water deposits, grime, and mineral stains. Remove the baking soda with another moist cloth.
- Mild abrasives: If persistent stains persist, consider using a mild abrasive cleaning. Bon Ami, Brill-Glow, and Soft Scrub are some of our favorites. These should help you to scrub away at tougher stains without damaging the surface of the fiberglass. Rinse with warm water once you’ve completed scrubbing.
- Calcium removers: CLR, Lime-A-Way, and even plain 5 percent white vinegar are all safe to use on fiberglass if used moderately. (Don’t try this on your weekly bathroom clean-up!) Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations and wipe down with warm water.
- If you’ve tried everything else and still can’t get those stains out, you can use oxygen bleach as a final option. You can buy oxygen bleach, but you can also produce your own at home. One part hydrogen peroxide, one part baking soda, and two parts hot water should be mixed together. Then apply to the stains (and only the stains), wait an hour, and then rinse.
For stains, other sources suggest using solvents like acetone (used in nail polish remover). Any abrasive should be used with caution, since it might impair the life of your fiberglass sink.
What is the best way to refurbish a fiberglass laundry sink?
- If you don’t clean the sink, it won’t take the new surface coating.
- Using cloths, clean the sink.
- Towels can be used to dry the fiberglass.
- Using masking paper, cover the neighboring countertop and nearby parts of the wall.
- Coat the sink with an acrylic spray primer to prepare it for the new finish.
What’s the best way to get stains out of a fiberglass sink?
Stainless steel and fiberglass can also be used to make utility sinks. All of these materials can be cleaned in the same wash tub with vinegar, baking soda, or a mix of the two.
What’s the best way to clean a white plastic utility sink?
Using a white vinegar and water solution, spray the entire sink. In a spray bottle, combine 1/4 cup vinegar with each cup of water, then scrub the sink gently with a soft-bristle brush. The sink can also be disinfected with white vinegar. For extra-tough stains, add baking soda to the mix, as baking soda combined with vinegar creates a bubbly cleaning solution. If more cleaning is necessary, make a baking soda paste by mixing three parts baking soda with one part water.
How can you restore the appearance of a fiberglass sink?
How to Make Fiberglass Sinks Shine
- Soft, clean cloths
- Cleaning agent for commercial use (Scrubbing Bubbles or Formula 409)
- Baking soda or dishwashing soap
- Gel-Gloss or vehicle wax can be used as a shine and sealing agent.
- Tool with a sharp edge.
What can I do to brighten up my fiberglass sink?
Using a delicate cloth bathed in warm water, spread the baking soda on the sink’s surface. Circular motions with the cloth, putting more pressure to the soiled spots. Baking soda’s alkaline characteristics should help break up any stubborn stains, filth, or mildew without harming the fiberglass.
What can I do to make my utility sink more appealing?
My husband is the carpenter, while I sand, prime, and paint. So, despite my repeated requests for my husband to notify me when he moves onto the next phase so that I can photograph it, he frequently forgets. I enjoy graphics, although they may be a little missing in this post.
Step 1: Assemble the Front & Side(s)
Begin by constructing the faux vanity’s front and side(s). We made an L-shaped “vanity” because our utilitarian sink is against a wall; depending on your layout, you may need to add an extra side for a U-shape. Cut your plywood to size using a circular saw, making care to measure and cut for both height and width, allowing for an overlap at the corner.
Once your parts are cut to size, apply wood glue to the seams where they will meet and fix them using clamps, allowing the glue to dry before using a drill and screws to join them.
To make the corner, we butted the two pieces against each other (As you can see, we are reusing one piece from a shelving unit we took apart.)
Step 2: Fill in the Screw Holes with Wood Filler
Fill in your screw holes with wood filler if you want your front and sides to look finished. If you discover any other flaws in the wood, you can fill them up with wood filler as well.
Simply scoop a little amount of wood filler with a putty knife and apply it into the hole, scraping away any excess. Allow for complete drying before continue.
If you have really rough plywood (like I did because there wasn’t any sanded plywood in stock), you can use this tutorial for hiding wood grain to have a clean finish on the front and sides. (This is something I actually did.)
Step 3: Sand Your Piece
When sanding, it’s usually a good idea to use a dust mask and eye protection.
Sand the front and side(s) of your item with a sander until smooth, paying special attention to the places where you applied wood filler. I usually start with a lower grain sandpaper (about 120) and then go over the piece with a higher grit sandpaper a second time (220).
Remember that no one will see the inside of the cabinet that sits up against the utility sink, so you don’t have to sand that area unless you absolutely want to. We decided to leave the inside of the house unfinished.
Step 4: Clean Your Piece
Otherwise, you’ll end up with grit under your paint if you don’t remove all of the dust you made when sanding. I usually begin by dusting with a microfiber dusting mitt and then wiping down with a wet rag.
Step 5: Prime & Paint
When working with wood, I usually recommend applying a coat of primer. This smooths out the surface and helps to seal any knots. Apply primer with a paintbrush or a foam roller and let it dry completely before proceeding to the next step. Each can of primer should provide the sufficient drying time before painting over it.
Sand your work with a high-grit sandpaper after priming and before painting. (You can accomplish this all by hand.) Clean up any dust with a moist rag and let it dry before applying paint. You can now paint your item with a paintbrush or a foam roller once it has dried.
You’ll probably need two coats of paint, so make sure to let the first one dry completely before applying the second. After the first layer has dried and before painting on the second coat, I recommend combing over the entire item with a high-grit sand paper and removing dust. This results in a more even finish.
Step 6: Buy or Make A Door & Drawer Front
You can buy a door and drawer front for your fake vanity, but you can also make one yourself.
I made a separate guide on how to make Shaker Style Door and Drawer Fronts to avoid overwhelming this page with too much information. This tutorial may be found here.
Assemble, wood filler, sand, clean, prime, and paint are the processes from this instruction that can be aligned with the one for building the door and drawer fronts to save time. Remember that the backs of the door and drawer fronts will be joined to the front of your faux vanity, so you won’t need to do anything with them.
Step 7: Adhere Your Door and Drawer Front to the Face of Your Faux Vanity
Because the faux vanity’s door and drawer aren’t meant to be functional, you can simply fix them to the piece’s face with a nail gun (if they are light like ours). Just make sure they’re level and centered before securing them.
Step 8: Attach knobs and pulls to the Door & Drawer Fronts
In order to go through both the plywood and the trim of your door, you’ll need long knob screws. Simply drill a hole in the location where you want your knob to go, insert the screw, and secure your knob.
I found a knob that matched the other hardware in the room reasonably well, but I couldn’t locate a nice matching pull, so I stole an old one from my in-laws and spray painted it to match. This is always a fantastic choice. Just remember to spray paint the screw tops to match the rest of the project.
I always spray paint smaller sections on an old piece of cardboard before attaching the tops with screws.
Step 9: Make a Vanity Top
You can make a top to disguise the seam between your faux vanity and utility sink. Measure and cut to size the two or three sides where you wish to add the top. Then sand and stain your wood pieces. Attach your top pieces to the top edge of the board with a nail gun.
As you can see, we experimented with many ways to make a top that goes all the way around the sides. I’m still pondering the best way to hang the sculpture against the wall.
Budget So Far
- $27.98 for wall paint (1 gallon of Sherwin Williams Marshmallow color matched in Behr)
- $27.23 for a Faux Vanity
- $18.94 for 24 plywood (I only needed one because another piece from a laundry room storage unit was utilized.)
- $3.08 for a Faux Door Knob
- Faux Drawer Pull – FREE (Already had on hand)
- Pull Spray Paint (FREE) (Already had on hand)
- Paint is available for no cost (Using leftover paint from the cabinets)
- $3.42 for a roller cover for painting walls
- $1.79 for a Foam Roller Cover for Painting Vanity
- Primer, Wood Filler, and Other Paint Supplies are all available for free (Already had on hand)
What is the best way to clean a black plastic sink?
Fill the sink halfway with hot water and 1 cup chlorine bleach. Allow the mixture to sit in the sink for a maximum of one hour. While working to remove debris, grime, and sticky residue, the chlorine will kill any germs or bacteria that may be lurking on the sink’s surface. Drain the water and thoroughly clean the sink to remove any bleach residue. Using a soft towel, wipe the surface dry. Bleach should always be used in a well-ventilated environment, and it should never be used with any other cleaning product because it might produce a deadly gas.
What is the best way to remove rust spots from a plastic utility sink?
Rust stains can be difficult to remove and, over time, may become permanent. The following are some of the possible causes:
Rust particles can be found in your water supply due to a rusted or degraded water heater, fixtures, or pipelines. This is a health hazard, in addition to the damage to your house, that should be remedied as soon as possible by a skilled, certified plumber. Rusty pipes or a water heater will need to be replaced if the problem is caused by them.
If the water entering your home has enough iron, the water may appear and taste normal, but rust stains may emerge in locations where there is frequently standing water, such as the toilet bowl. Having your water tested or contacting a professional, certified plumber are two options. A softener or filter is indicated if there is an abundance of iron deposits.
The material your surface is composed of (acrylic, porcelain, or enamel), as well as the length of time the discoloration has been there, will determine your effectiveness in eliminating rust stains. The color may have permanently etched itself into the porcelain in cases of chronic staining, making it impossible to remove. To avoid damage, perform a spot test in an inconspicuous location of the sink, tub, or toilet before attempting any of the methods described below. The following are some options for removing rust stains:
Make a moist paste using bottled or fresh lemon juice and enough salt to cover the afflicted region (s). While this treatment is best suited for flat surfaces, it can also be used in the toilet bowl, albeit with some difficulty. Allow several hours or overnight for the mixture to rest before cleaning with a toothbrush or microfiber cloth and rinsing with clean water.
The use of a pumice stick or stone to remove rust stains from porcelain is an option, however it is not suggested for fiberglass. Simply soak the stone in water and massage the discoloration out with enough elbow grease. The wet stone will form a paste as you work, which will aid in the cleaning process by lifting and removing the stain. Rinse the area with clean water once you’ve finished scrubbing.
Using baking soda and water, make a thick paste and apply it to the affected region (s). Allow to sit overnight before scrubbing with a toothbrush or microfiber cloth and then rinsing with clean water.
Scrub the area using the rough side of a sponge or scouring pad that has been slightly wet for light stains.
Several cleaning chemicals designed to remove stains, including rust, are available on the market. Bleach-containing items should be avoided because they may aggravate the condition. Among the possibilities are:
Friend of the Barkeep
What is the best way to clean a white acrylic sink?
Fill your basins with warm water and a cap full of bleach to remove difficult stains from your acrylic sink. Allow 3-5 minutes for the bleach water solution to sit in the sink. Use a soft sponge soaked in the solution to scrub away any obvious difficult stains while the sink is soaking.
How do you get an acrylic sink to sparkle again?
- After each use, thoroughly rinse the sink with normal water.
- At least once a week, clean acrylic sinks.
- To remove difficult stains from the sink, use chlorine bleach.
- In the sink basin, place protecting racks or mats.
- To keep the sink shining, use an acrylic cream polish on a regular basis.