(1)All pipe, tubing, fittings, and other piping components between the tank and the first shutoff valve must be designed with a factor of safety of at least 8 based on the minimum specified tensile strength at room temperature for the full range of pressures, temperatures, and loadings to which they may be subjected. All other pipe, tubing, fittings, and other pipeline components must be adequate for the full range of pressures, temperatures, and loads to which they may be exposed, with a factor of safety of at least four. For plumbing systems with a working pressure more than 100 psi, underground piping must never be less than Schedule 80. Any material utilized, including gaskets and packing, must be compatible with natural gas and the conditions in which it is used.
(2)All piping and tubing must be run as close to the source as possible, with suitable allowances for expansion, contraction, jarring, vibration, and settling.
Exterior pipe must be well supported and protected against mechanical damage, whether buried or put aboveground.
Unless otherwise protected, underground plumbing must be buried at least 18 inches below the ground’s surface.
All underground piping must be coated to prevent corrosion in accordance with Section 533(b) or an equivalent standard.
For piping below ground, zinc coatings (galvanizing) are not considered enough protection.
(3)All welded piping must be manufactured and tested in conformity with the ANSI Code for Pressure Piping, Petroleum Refinery Piping, B31.3, 1966 Edition or a similar code.
(4)All valves must be capable of withstanding the whole range of pressure and temperature that they may be exposed to.
The service ratings must be stamped or otherwise permanently marked on the valve body by the manufacturer.
Strainers, snubbers, and expansion joints, among other piping components, must be permanently marked by the manufacturer to show the service ratings.
All materials, such as valve seats, packing, gaskets, and diaphragms, must be resistant to natural gas action in the circumstances they are exposed to.
(A)Valves, cocks, fittings, and other piping components made of cast iron or semisteel that do not comply with ASTM Specifications A-536-67, Grade 60-40-18; A-395-68; A-47-68, Grade 35018; and A-445-66 unless they have pressure-temperature ratings of at least 1 1/2 times the design service conditions.
Valves made of cast iron or semisteel that do not meet the three ASTM criteria specified above should not be utilized as primary stop valves.
(C)Valves with a design that allows the valve stem to be removed without disassembling the valve body or removing the entire valve bonnet.
(D)Plastic pipe, tubing, hose, and fittings, unless the Division has given written approval.
(E)Valves having valve stem packing glands that cannot be repacked under pressure unless they are separated from the vessel by another stop valve of an appropriate kind.
Service valves are exempt from this rule.
(F)Aluminum tubing for outside applications, as well as threaded aluminum connections and adapters that must be attached or removed as part of the filling or transferring operation for those connections and adapters with unique threads suitable for this service.
Compressed Natural Gas (CNG) is a type of natural gas that has been compressed.
Hose shall not be utilized in place of manifolds, pipelines, or tubing between dispensing tanks and cylinders and the loading and/or unloading hose connections, except that a segment of metallic hose not exceeding 24 inches in length may be used in each pipeline to offer flexibility where needed.
Each section must be fitted in such a way that it is shielded from mechanical harm and is easily visible for inspection.
Each section must include the manufacturer’s identification.
(1)On liquid lines between the tank and the first shutdown valve, flanged or threaded joints that have not been seal welded are forbidden.
(3)Except as provided in 536(c), piping with a diameter of 2 inches or less may be threaded, welded, or flanged (1).
(5)The plugs must be solid or bull plugs made of at least Schedule 80 seamless pipe.
(6)Threaded pipe and tubing with compression type couplings may be utilized for service temperatures of minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit or above, except as prohibited in 536(c) (2).
(7)Pipe supports for piping with a service temperature below minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit must be built to prevent support steel embrittlement by minimizing heat transfer.
(8)In low-temperature usage, bellows type expansion joints must have exterior insulation to prevent ice from accumulating on the bellows.
1.Amendment to subsections a)(1) and a)(5)(F) filed 3-29-74; effective the thirty-first day after that (Register 74, No. 13).
What is the best way to connect a gas line to a detached garage?
There are a lot of steps to getting this done. It’s critical that you read each step and follow them carefully.
The majority of the time, your gas line will go underground. In this situation, you’ll need to know where you’ll be physically running your gas line to the garage. You must plan your journey from the point where the natural gas pipe currently begins. You should start after the primary gas valve and branch out from there. Add a second shut-off valve where the line enters the garage if necessary.
You’ll be digging a 12″ wide, 20″ deep trench, so plan appropriately. This path must be short and straightforward. Between the two points, try to avoid any rough or “difficult to work with” sections.
2. Take a look at your bill of materials
Begin by creating a bill of materials for the project. Consider if you’ll be using a conventional black or poly pipe for this project. If your line will go underground, you’ll need a poly pipe designed specifically for burial. Use a conventional black pipe if your line will be above ground. Be aware of the many fitting options available for each pipe.
After you’ve decided on which pipe to utilize, a trencher is another material to consider. A small trencher can be rented for a few hundred dollars per day for this type of activity.
3. Connect Your Lines
Locate the gas valve now that everything is in place. Before going any farther, turn it off right away. After the gas has been turned off, you can begin cutting your trench, being careful to avoid root systems. If not prevented, this can make the entire process very tough.
You can start laying your pipe after you’ve done cutting the trench. Make sure it’s connected and that all of the connections are sealed. This is a vital component of the procedure to take your time with. It’s easy to make a mistake with the connections, and doing so can put you in danger.
The secondary valve can then be installed in the garage. Then, from the trench, run the pipe to the appliance you’re trying to install. Once the inspection is complete, you can complete the installation. You can close the trench by filling it back up with earth.
4. Double-check your setup
Check your lines for leakage before closing up your trench. So that you can finish the test with precision, research the requirements of your local code.
You’ll be compressing air into your line and testing the pressure in two ways. After you’ve applied the compressed air, spray your connections with a 1:1 mixture of dish soap and water. Keep an eye out for any bubbling. If any bubbles are visible, you’ll need to revisit and reseal your connections.
After that, you’ll need to connect a pressure meter to the very end of your gas line. Allow it to register against compressed air for 24 hours. If you see a loss in pressure during this time, you have a leak that needs to be fixed. If the pressure does not drop, all of your connections are correctly sealed.
You may now test out your appliance by ensuring that the gas is flowing freely.
What is the best way to vent a propane garage heater?
Some experts advise placing the heater near a window or another source of fresh air. You should also place the heater on a flat area away from any combustible materials. It should be positioned in the garage area that requires the greatest heat. That should be enough to keep an interior heater ventilated.
Is it possible to utilize flexible gas as a garage heater?
- Gas work is exceedingly risky and should only be done by a licensed professional.
- Choose a position for the heater that is close to the gas line and easy to reach. Mount the heater in a corner to give it wider range.
- Using bolts and a drill, secure the heating bracket to the desired spot. To guarantee correct clearance from the walls and ceiling, make sure to follow the directions.
- Slide the heater onto the mounting bracket and attach it with the included nuts.
- To connect the gas piping, use a spade bit to drill a hole into the wall or ceiling.
- Using the drill and drywall screws, install the mounting bracket that came with the heater into the wall or ceiling.
- Pass the flexible gas line through the bracket after connecting it to the existing gas line.
- Screw the fitting onto the bracket after threading the fitting and brass connection that came with the heater onto the flexible gas line.
- Use a selection of gas pipe, fittings, elbows, and nipples to connect the flexible gas line to the heater. To secure all of the connections, use pipe dope.
- Drill a hole on the opposite end of the garage and build a vent to ensure that there is another air flow to allow the room’s exhaust to escape.
Is it possible to utilize PEX for a propane line?
Yes, but it’s crucial to define your intended usage before ordering polyethylene pipe for your project because the names PE and PEX are commonly used interchangeably.
There isn’t a single PE pipe I’ve seen that can’t be utilized for both natural gas and propane.
The difference in pressure between natural gas and propane at the house meter, measured in inches of water column, is less than one pound.
The majority of my clients were unaware of this.
In today’s world, we live in a plastic world, and plastic pipe is a fantastic product for natural gas and propane installations.
If you’re planning a DIY project involving gas piping, just make sure you purchase the correct material.
Then type in “PEX pipe” and take a look at the various applications for PEX pipe.
What type of propane pipe should I use?
Propane gas is transported from its storage tank to the first regulator via copper or black iron pipe. These pipes are non-corrosive, non-flammable, and can withstand high pressure. From the first regulator to the second regulator to the furnace, more copper or black iron piping is utilized to complete the supply line. Both above and below ground, the pipe can be employed.
What is the best propane tubing?
The service plumbing, also known as the yard line, is the gas line that travels between the tank and the structure that houses the gas appliances. Copper tubing or plastic polyethylene piping are commonly used in propane yard lines. For the entire exterior section of the installation to be safe and serviceable, the service piping must be installed appropriately and legally in conjunction with the propane tank.
The visible portion of the yard line is where it emerges from the ground adjacent to the tank, as well as where it enters the structure or links to a source of usage, such as a generator or pool heater. For any section of a propane gas service line, only certified materials and fittings should be utilized. PVC, rubber hose, and flex lines are prohibited and should not be utilized in any component of the gas service line.
Is it possible to put a gas line through a garage?
It is considered safe to place piping in the corners of a garage entry or in corners shielded by stairs. Any new installations where vertical pipe runs directly into or up to the ceiling from the top of the meter box will be permitted.
Is it possible to run flexible gas line inside?
Many households in the northern half of the country will have to turn on their heating systems at the beginning of October. Natural gas is one of the most cost-effective and efficient fuels for a furnace or boiler. With its benefits come questions about safety and obligations for homeowners. It is your role as a home inspector to assist in the detection of flaws that may jeopardize the safety of residents in natural gas-powered homes. We’ll go through some of the fundamentals of gas piping inspection.
The gas supply line, also known as the building line, is the plumbing that runs throughout the house. Individual appliances are served by branch lines. The branch line finishes in a drop line, which is a vertical pipe that drops down from an overhead branch line to the appliance. If it carries gas up to an appliance from a branch line below the appliance, it’s called a riser.
A sediment trap or dirt pocket, commonly referred to as a drip leg, is normally present at the appliance connection point and consists of a nipple and a cap. This pipe extension, which is normally at least 3 inches long, is designed to catch any water or foreign material that may be present in the gas before it enters the appliance. The solids and liquids fall into the pocket, which is just a gravity mechanism.
The homeowner is normally responsible for the pipework downstream of the gas meter. The gas company is normally responsible for the piping upstream of the gas meter, as well as the meter itself.
Steel, copper, and brass are the most popular materials for gas piping. In some cases, galvanized steel, copper, brass, or CSST (Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing) can be used, but copper is prohibited by some utilities. Copper is widely used in different parts of the world. You should be aware of what is considered acceptable in your neighborhood. Black steel piping with malleable iron or steel fittings is common. In other cases, galvanized steel is also used.
Flexible connectors are allowed to be used to connect appliances to gas pipelines. A shut-off valve must be installed at the rigid piping connection. This valve must be located in the same area as the appliance.
Accessible and three or six feet long: The flexible connectors cannot pass through walls, floors, or ceilings, and they cannot be hidden. Except for gas stoves and laundry dryers, the flexible connector length is normally limited to 3 feet. 6 feet is usually allowed for these equipment. Using nipples to splice or join connectors is frequently forbidden. Flexible connectors are only allowed in some jurisdictions for gas stoves, dryers, outdoor barbecues, and other semi-portable equipment. Flexible connectors may be prohibited on gas furnaces, water heaters, space heaters, and other similar appliances. Flexible connectors are more likely to be utilized on all appliances in earthquake-prone areas because they give some protection against gas piping leakage or rupture during an earthquake. To find out what is and isn’t permitted in your area, consult your local gas code.
The use of white thread seal tape (often referred to as Teflon tape) as a connecting compound for steel gas piping is not recommended. Cutting oils on the pipe threads from the manufacturing process may hinder the tape from sealing. Yellow thread seal tape is permitted in some regions. Pipe dope is favored and may be the only option available. You might wish to double-check with the gas company. Inquire about whether any piping installations with thread seal tape of any color should be reported as a defect.
Although certain exceptions exist, most appliances should have a shut-off valve nearby.
The use of gas piping as a grounding mechanism for the electrical service is prohibited by most authorities. In many countries, however, bonding the gas piping to the electrical grounding system is required. This is often accomplished by connecting the gas pipe to the supply water piping (assuming it is grounded) near the water heater. We want to keep the gas piping at zero electrical potential by attaching it to the grounding system to prevent an electrical potential building within it that could lead to arcing, which could ignite gas.
All of these issues have the potential to result in gas leaks and explosions.
Carson Dunlop’s home inspection training program is the only certified college dedicated solely to house inspection training and is designed to ensure your success. For more information about Carson Dunlop’s home inspection training program, click here.
What is the best way to trench a gas line?
Contractors in Colorado are required to dig gas lines. Following these rules on your next trenching job will not only make it “gas line friendly,” but it will also save you time, money, and ensure that your project complies with the gas line installation regulations. Costly return visits, wasted man-hours, job delays, and customer frustrations can all be avoided with the right trench.
We’ve included illustrations to help illustrate the criteria for these gas line trenching regulations, so you can get the job done right the first time.
1) Call 811 for location informationthe it’s law. Keep in mind that they’re simply looking for service lines. A private locator is required to locate all private lines. 3 days are required for 811 services, not including the day you contact them before you begin digging.
- At all riser locations, the trenches must be 24″ deep and level throughout, with no rocks or debris that could damage the pipe in any way. Always use clean back-fill material for back-filling.
- For added protection, the gas line must be put in a sleeve in specific circumstances. We ask that you notify your estimator if there will be any concrete poured or if the subterranean line will be subjected to additional weight, such as a driveway.
- Please take additional care when back-filling a riser to ensure that it is straight and plum.
2) Let’s begin with the gas meter (see picture 1a)