Two air vents on the back of the refrigerator are visible from the outside. Unlike electric refrigerators, propane refrigerators in RVs and mobile homes require outdoor ventilation. The temperature differential between the lower and top vents is used by absorption style propane refrigerators. Furthermore, propane combustion produces carbon monoxide, which must be vented outside the cabin.
The frigid winter air is sneaking in behind the refrigerator and cooling it down beyond the 40 or so degrees you want a refrigerator to be, according to my first thought on why the refrigerator is freezing. And, because it only has the equipment to cool itself (rather than heat itself), it freezes solid in the winter. As it turns out, I was only partially correct (more on that later).
Both propane and electricity may be used to power the refrigerator I bought. I reasoned that since the refrigerator was running on electricity, it wouldn’t require the same amount of air ventilation as when it was running on propane. I was mistaken. Last month, I contacted with a technician at Pete’s RV and realized that running the refrigerator in electric mode does not eliminate the requirement for ventilation. The electricity simply powers a heating element that takes the place of the propane’s heat. Regardless of whether the refrigerator is powered by gas or electricity, the temperature differential and airflow are still required.
“During a normal cycle, either an electric heating element or a propane burner provides heat. The water and liquid ammonia are boiled and evaporated, then condensed back into a liquid over and over throughout the process of eliminating the heat from within the refrigerator and freezer (the absence of heat is cold). And since water freezes at 32 degrees Fahrenheit, it’s easy to see how extremely low temperatures, just like excessively hot temperatures, might affect absorption refrigeration.” RVDoctor
So I started looking into what other RVers do throughout the winter. What I’ve discovered isn’t great.
I’ve seen suggestions on RV blogs about using insulation to block *some* of the airflow to your refrigerator vents, but that advice comes with a caveat “At your own risk,” as well as the manufacturer’s recommendations (and will apparently void your warranty).
Is it necessary to vent a propane refrigerator outside?
The intake vent must be properly situated on the outside of the car or home to give access to the burner area in the event that any maintenance or repairs are required. It should not be mounted higher than the bottom of the refrigerator, so that if there is a propane leak, the gas will flow outside instead of collecting inside.
Is it possible for a propane refrigerator to emit carbon monoxide?
Propane appliances, like any other gas device, can emit carbon monoxide if they are not maintained properly or if there is insufficient ventilation. Carbon monoxide is a gas that is colorless and odorless. You may suffer some or all of the following symptoms if you are exposed to carbon monoxide:
If you or someone you know exhibits any of these symptoms, get out into the fresh air right away, visit your doctor for treatment, and have your propane appliances checked and serviced as needed.
Always make sure your home, cottage, camper, or recreational vehicle is properly ventilated, and install authorized carbon monoxide detectors in accordance with manufacturer guidelines (products with CSA 6.19-01 on the packaging). At least one detector should be installed on each floor of your home.
Is it safe to use a propane refrigerator?
So, how safe are propane refrigerators? Yes, propane refrigerators are safe, thanks to the lack of moving parts. However, be mindful that they contain ammonia and the odor it produces. When using propane cylinders, you should also observe best practices, which I’ve outlined below.
Is it necessary to vent an RV refrigerator?
The only thing the fridge needs to vent outdoors is combustion exhaust fumes, not heat. So, if you’re running on electricity, vent it inside, especially if you want the heat. Don’t even try to connect it to a propane tank. In terms of safety, venting the heat inside is fine, but you’ll want to be sure it’s actually done.
How do you vent a refrigerator in an RV?
The first series of articles on RV refrigeration covered how the refrigeration process works and how to control it. This article will explain why it’s crucial to turn off the heat in your refrigerator as you get ready for a trip.
Heat drives the entire refrigeration process, as I’ve discussed in prior posts. In order to keep the interior of your refrigerator cool, heat must be transported from inside to the surrounding environment. So, what happens if your refrigerator can’t get rid of the heat it generates? The short answer is that it will not cool, and the heat in your RV inside will increase. You may have even observed heat accumulation above your refrigerator in the cabinet area. This is fine if you want to put a toaster on top of your refrigerator, but most people don’t want the extra heat in their RV.
The refrigerator should be insulated when an RV is built so that the heat produced at the back of the refrigerator can escape to the outside. The top of the refrigerator is frequently uninsulated, resulting in a pocket where heat can concentrate. This heat pocket has the ability to transport heat to other places as well as the refrigerator’s inside. Packing fiberglass insulation around the sides and top of the refrigerator between the refrigerator cabinet and the surrounding structure, blocking heat transfer, is a simple solution to this problem. After you’ve finished insulating, cover any loose insulation that might fall down and obstruct the cooling unit’s air passage. A word of caution: if insulation in the cooling-unit compartment prevents air passage, the refrigerator will overheat.
We may now discuss the two methods of cooling-unit venting since that we’ve handled insulating the refrigerator inside its cabinet.
A side vent access door at the bottom of the refrigerator and a roof vent at the top are the typical methods of ventilation (see illustration). This is the optimum layout because air rising up through the cooling unit compartment pulls cool air in from the side. The air absorbs heat before exiting through the roof vent.
There are two benefits to having a roof vent installed. One is the so-called “chimney” or “stack” effect, which creates a draft. The second benefit is that heat is transferred up and away from your RV, resulting in a significantly cooler interior. Natural convection is used in roof vent installations, therefore fans are rarely required to aid with ventilation.
Manufacturers are increasingly using the side vent approach (see illustration). On the side of the RV, there will be two vents for this type of installation. Some side vent applications are designed for RVs with slide-outs that can’t use roof vents. Other manufacturers are choosing for side vent refrigerator installs to save money and free up space by avoiding roof penetration, which necessitates the use of sealant to prevent water leaks. In contrast to the roof vent, the side vent lowers the chimney effect, which aids in the removal of heat. Wind has the ability to completely cease convection in some instances. As a result, side-vent refrigerators fail more frequently than roof-vent refrigerators. The good news is that either style of vent installation can benefit from improved venting.
The wind has an effect on your refrigerator’s ventilation, sometimes in a beneficial way and sometimes in a negative way.
When the wind blows in the right direction, it can force air into the bottom side vent while pushing air out the top. The disadvantage is that as the wind blows past your RV, it might cause “eddies,” which cause low pressure and stagnation zones for the cooling air (see illustration). As a result, the cooling unit is unable to reject its heat, slowing or even stopping the refrigeration process. Wind stagnation is more of a problem with side vents than with roof vents. I feel this is one of the reasons why people who have side vent refrigerators have greater troubles. Our slide-in camper has a roof vent, but the refrigerator is situated in such a way that when the wind blows, it overheats.
Your refrigerator’s efficiency depends on proper ventilation. The ammonia in the system remains as a vapor if it is unable to evacuate its heat, and it does not return to the cooling unit’s boiler (discussed in a previous article). As a result, the boiler overheats and the cooling unit’s fluids cease to circulate. When the ARP control senses this condition, it intervenes by cutting off the cooling unit’s heat source and only resuming operation when it is safe to do so.
Manufacturers began including fans as a common feature as the size of RV refrigerators grew larger. The fans help, but they’re installed in such a way that they encourage air recirculation within the cooling unit chamber. The fans are situated between the vents rather than at the vents, which causes recirculation. Furthermore, the fans are controlled by a mechanical snap switch, which is prone to failure.
As a result of the aforementioned circumstances, ARP Control developed a precision fan controller that only activates the fans when they are required. The ARP fan control employs a temperature sensor instead of a mechanical snap switch to activate the fans. The temperature at which the fan turns on can be set between 90 and 140 degrees Fahrenheit. Blower-type fans that are silent, move a lot of air, and may be mounted at the vent to draw in cool air while forcing out hot air are available. We propose placing a second fan to suck out the hot air that builds at the top of the refrigerator compartment for side vent installations. A fan mounted at the top vent has the added benefit of pushing hot air from the refrigerator away from the RV, keeping the slide-out and interior cooler.
Installing 12V computer-type CPU fans inside the refrigerator is another way to boost efficiency. Install the fans so that they can blow on the refrigerator’s cooling fins and circulate the air. There are several advantages to using this strategy. One benefit is that the temperature within the refrigerator is more consistent, requiring the cooling unit to work for less time. Another advantage is that frost won’t accumulate as quickly on the cooling fins. The fans do not have to be on all of the time. They only need to run when the cooling system is activated. The fans within the refrigerator will only run when they are needed thanks to the ARP fan controller.
I’m frequently asked how to prepare for a road trip if the refrigerator has been turned off. It is recommended that the refrigerator be started the day before the vacation, but as an engineer, I am all about efficiency. Yes, if there is nothing in the refrigerator and it is warm, the absorption refrigeration process takes a long time to start. Mao and I will cook meals and freeze it in our household refrigerator for our first week on the road because we don’t like eating out too much. I’ll thaw the frozen enchiladas and other delights in the RV refrigerator a few hours before we leave, or the night before if we’re going early in the morning. The temperature of the refrigerator drops within an hour or so when frozen food is placed in the refrigerator. The first night out on the road, we have the luxury of starting with a full LP tank, a nice beverage, and enchiladas.
What’s the best way to wire up a propane refrigerator?
Before you put the refrigerator in position, make sure the floor underneath it is level. Even a minor tilt can interfere with the cooling cycle and render it useless, depending on how old it is.
Wrap one end of a flexible gas line around the threads of your house’s gas valve or the outlet valve on a propane tank, and screw it to it. Using a wrench, tighten the connection.
Wrap tape over the refrigerator’s inlet, which is normally toward the floor behind the refrigerator, and screw on the other end of the connector. Tighten it all the way.
Is it possible to use a gas fridge in a tent?
Only use the fridge or other gas appliance in an open porch area if the tent has a sewn-in ground sheet and can be fully closed (also consider fire risks). We also propose installing a carbon monoxide (CO) alarm near the appliance for further piece of mind.
Is it necessary to exhaust a propane heater?
To get the optimum benefits, like with most heating solutions, sufficient ventilation is required. Propane heaters require oxygen to function. As a result, it will share the oxygen you consume in a garage. You also run the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning if you don’t have sufficient ventilation.