There’s just one place to begin: mapping out the route from your existing natural gas connection. A decent starting point is to start near, but not necessarily after, where the primary gas valve is placed. You’ll eventually branch out from here to start your own garage line.
Is it possible to put a gas line through a garage?
It is considered safe to place piping in the corners of a garage entry or in corners shielded by stairs. Any new installations where vertical pipe runs directly into or up to the ceiling from the top of the meter box will be permitted.
Is it possible to run natural gas line around the outside of the house?
(1)All pipe, tubing, fittings, and other piping components between the tank and the first shutoff valve must be designed with a factor of safety of at least 8 based on the minimum specified tensile strength at room temperature for the full range of pressures, temperatures, and loadings to which they may be subjected.
All other pipe, tubing, fittings, and other pipeline components must be adequate for the full range of pressures, temperatures, and loads to which they may be exposed, with a factor of safety of at least four.
For plumbing systems with a working pressure more than 100 psi, underground piping must never be less than Schedule 80.
Any material utilized, including gaskets and packing, must be compatible with natural gas and the conditions in which it is used.
(2)All piping and tubing must be run as close to the source as possible, with suitable allowances for expansion, contraction, jarring, vibration, and settling.
Exterior pipe must be well supported and protected against mechanical damage, whether buried or put aboveground.
Unless otherwise protected, underground plumbing must be buried at least 18 inches below the ground’s surface.
All underground piping must be coated to prevent corrosion in accordance with Section 533(b) or an equivalent standard.
For piping below ground, zinc coatings (galvanizing) are not considered enough protection.
(3)All welded piping must be manufactured and tested in conformity with the ANSI Code for Pressure Piping, Petroleum Refinery Piping, B31.3, 1966 Edition or a similar code.
(4)All valves must be capable of withstanding the whole range of pressure and temperature that they may be exposed to.
The service ratings must be stamped or otherwise permanently marked on the valve body by the manufacturer.
Strainers, snubbers, and expansion joints, among other piping components, must be permanently marked by the manufacturer to show the service ratings.
All materials, such as valve seats, packing, gaskets, and diaphragms, must be resistant to natural gas action in the circumstances they are exposed to.
(A)Valves, cocks, fittings, and other piping components made of cast iron or semisteel that do not comply with ASTM Specifications A-536-67, Grade 60-40-18; A-395-68; A-47-68, Grade 35018; and A-445-66 unless they have pressure-temperature ratings of at least 1 1/2 times the design service conditions.
Valves made of cast iron or semisteel that do not meet the three ASTM criteria specified above should not be utilized as primary stop valves.
(C)Valves with a design that allows the valve stem to be removed without disassembling the valve body or removing the entire valve bonnet.
(D)Plastic pipe, tubing, hose, and fittings, unless the Division has given written approval.
(E)Valves having valve stem packing glands that cannot be repacked under pressure unless they are separated from the vessel by another stop valve of an appropriate kind.
Service valves are exempt from this rule.
(F)Aluminum tubing for outside applications, as well as threaded aluminum connections and adapters that must be attached or removed as part of the filling or transferring operation for those connections and adapters with unique threads suitable for this service.
Compressed Natural Gas (CNG) is a type of natural gas that has been compressed.
Hose shall not be utilized in place of manifolds, pipelines, or tubing between dispensing tanks and cylinders and the loading and/or unloading hose connections, except that a segment of metallic hose not exceeding 24 inches in length may be used in each pipeline to offer flexibility where needed.
Each section must be fitted in such a way that it is shielded from mechanical harm and is easily visible for inspection.
Each section must include the manufacturer’s identification.
(1)On liquid lines between the tank and the first shutdown valve, flanged or threaded joints that have not been seal welded are forbidden.
(3)Except as provided in 536(c), piping with a diameter of 2 inches or less may be threaded, welded, or flanged (1).
(5)The plugs must be solid or bull plugs made of at least Schedule 80 seamless pipe.
(6)Threaded pipe and tubing with compression type couplings may be utilized for service temperatures of minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit or above, except as prohibited in 536(c) (2).
(7)Pipe supports for piping with a service temperature below minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit must be built to prevent support steel embrittlement by minimizing heat transfer.
(8)In low-temperature usage, bellows type expansion joints must have exterior insulation to prevent ice from accumulating on the bellows.
1.Amendment to subsections a)(1) and a)(5)(F) filed 3-29-74; effective the thirty-first day after that (Register 74, No. 13).
Is it possible to run flexible gas line inside?
Many households in the northern half of the country will have to turn on their heating systems at the beginning of October. Natural gas is one of the most cost-effective and efficient fuels for a furnace or boiler. With its benefits come questions about safety and obligations for homeowners. It is your role as a home inspector to assist in the detection of flaws that may jeopardize the safety of residents in natural gas-powered homes. We’ll go through some of the fundamentals of gas piping inspection.
The gas supply line, also known as the building line, is the plumbing that runs throughout the house. Individual appliances are served by branch lines. The branch line finishes in a drop line, which is a vertical pipe that drops down from an overhead branch line to the appliance. If it carries gas up to an appliance from a branch line below the appliance, it’s called a riser.
A sediment trap or dirt pocket, commonly referred to as a drip leg, is normally present at the appliance connection point and consists of a nipple and a cap. This pipe extension, which is normally at least 3 inches long, is designed to catch any water or foreign material that may be present in the gas before it enters the appliance. The solids and liquids fall into the pocket, which is just a gravity mechanism.
The homeowner is normally responsible for the pipework downstream of the gas meter. The gas company is normally responsible for the piping upstream of the gas meter, as well as the meter itself.
Steel, copper, and brass are the most popular materials for gas piping. In some cases, galvanized steel, copper, brass, or CSST (Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing) can be used, but copper is prohibited by some utilities. Copper is widely used in different parts of the world. You should be aware of what is considered acceptable in your neighborhood. Black steel piping with malleable iron or steel fittings is common. In other cases, galvanized steel is also used.
Flexible connectors are allowed to be used to connect appliances to gas pipelines. A shut-off valve must be installed at the rigid piping connection. This valve must be located in the same area as the appliance.
Accessible and three or six feet long: The flexible connectors cannot pass through walls, floors, or ceilings, and they cannot be hidden. Except for gas stoves and laundry dryers, the flexible connector length is normally limited to 3 feet. 6 feet is usually allowed for these equipment. Using nipples to splice or join connectors is frequently forbidden. Flexible connectors are only allowed in some jurisdictions for gas stoves, dryers, outdoor barbecues, and other semi-portable equipment. Flexible connectors may be prohibited on gas furnaces, water heaters, space heaters, and other similar appliances. Flexible connectors are more likely to be utilized on all appliances in earthquake-prone areas because they give some protection against gas piping leakage or rupture during an earthquake. To find out what is and isn’t permitted in your area, consult your local gas code.
The use of white thread seal tape (often referred to as Teflon tape) as a connecting compound for steel gas piping is not recommended. Cutting oils on the pipe threads from the manufacturing process may hinder the tape from sealing. Yellow thread seal tape is permitted in some regions. Pipe dope is favored and may be the only option available. You might wish to double-check with the gas company. Inquire about whether any piping installations with thread seal tape of any color should be reported as a defect.
Although certain exceptions exist, most appliances should have a shut-off valve nearby.
The use of gas piping as a grounding mechanism for the electrical service is prohibited by most authorities. In many countries, however, bonding the gas piping to the electrical grounding system is required. This is often accomplished by connecting the gas pipe to the supply water piping (assuming it is grounded) near the water heater. We want to keep the gas piping at zero electrical potential by attaching it to the grounding system to prevent an electrical potential building within it that could lead to arcing, which could ignite gas.
All of these issues have the potential to result in gas leaks and explosions.
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What kind of natural gas pipe do you use?
Steel, black iron, polyvinyl chloride (PVC), high-density polyethylene (HDPE), and copper are the most popular materials used to build gas piping. Some of these materials are prohibited by some utilities, so check with your local utility to see what is permitted in your region before installing any. If you employ a professional to complete the task, they will be familiar with the local regulations.
Flexible Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing
Corrugated stainless steel tubing is flexible and easy to install, and it works well in compact spaces and areas with a high risk of natural disasters. Flexible corrugated stainless steel tubing can crack over time, despite its ability to reduce damage. This material should only be used for indoor gas piping.
Galvanized Steel
Galvanized steel gas pipes are both energy efficient and long-lasting. Galvanized steel pipes are suitable for water supply lines since they may be used for both interior and outside gas lines. Because it is labor-intensive compared to other materials, this material is commonly found in older homes and is not used in new structures nowadays.
Black Iron
The most frequent material used to manufacture gas pipes, both inside and outside, is black iron. The substance is durable, heat resistant, and can be molded into an airtight seal. Black iron, on the other hand, can corrode and its sealant erode over time. Consider contacting a professional for routine maintenance if your gas pipes are constructed of black iron.
PVC
Because PVC gas pipes are sturdy and corrosion-resistant, they’re ideal for underground outside gas lines. Although PVC pipes are a cost-effective option, some places do not allow them since they can break during installation.
HDPE
HDPE pipes, like PVC pipes, are appropriate for buried outside lines. Although these plastic pipes are flexible and affordable, they can be damaged by subsurface material such as rocks and tree roots.
Copper
Some towns do not allow copper gas lines, therefore their use is limited. Copper pipes have severe code requirements that limit their use due to their estimated life of 20 years.
Is it possible to utilize flexible gas as a garage heater?
- Gas work is exceedingly risky and should only be done by a licensed professional.
- Choose a position for the heater that is close to the gas line and easy to reach. Mount the heater in a corner to give it wider range.
- Using bolts and a drill, secure the heating bracket to the desired spot. To guarantee correct clearance from the walls and ceiling, make sure to follow the directions.
- Slide the heater onto the mounting bracket and attach it with the included nuts.
- To connect the gas piping, use a spade bit to drill a hole into the wall or ceiling.
- Using the drill and drywall screws, install the mounting bracket that came with the heater into the wall or ceiling.
- Pass the flexible gas line through the bracket after connecting it to the existing gas line.
- Screw the fitting onto the bracket after threading the fitting and brass connection that came with the heater onto the flexible gas line.
- Use a selection of gas pipe, fittings, elbows, and nipples to connect the flexible gas line to the heater. To secure all of the connections, use pipe dope.
- Drill a hole on the opposite end of the garage and build a vent to ensure that there is another air flow to allow the room’s exhaust to escape.
Is it possible to install a house furnace in the garage?
Your furnace will work most efficiently in a location with plenty of fresh air, natural gas, and sufficient ventilation. Large places like basements, utility rooms, and garages, as well as limited spaces like an attic or closet, have these essential components.
What is the best way to run a natural gas line underground?
Running a gas connection underground to a garage, pole barn, or any other outbuilding separate from your home is a terrific job for even the most inexperienced DIYer. Except than possibly excavating the ditch, it can be done securely and easily if you follow a few easy procedures.
The materials necessary are simple and straightforward to put together, and no special tools are required. Go to Amazon to see a graphic representation of the various sizes of these materials. The PE pipe welding machine is no longer required.
Is it possible to run flexible gas lines outside?
Installing gaspiping for natural gas or propane gas appliances is simple and uncomplicated with Pro-Flex Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing (CSST). Installers can save time and money by using the Pro-Flex proprietary fitting system and flexible tubing to install gas piping in new or existing projects. Gas can be supplied throughout a home or commercial building via Pro-Flex CSST. It can be run through walls, joists in the floor or ceiling, or outside to a variety of equipment.
Is it possible to run a gas line above ground?
Please keep in mind that this is a guide to running gas line. When it comes to exposed gas line outside a house, not all construction agencies or jurisdictions have the same ideas or codes.
To answer the question directly, yes, gas piping can be exposed. You should keep the piping in safe regions and hang or strap it every four feet or less, according to proper piping procedures.
The type of pipe you use will be determined by the piping materials permitted by your county.
In some regions, copper pipe is permitted. I don’t care for it when it comes to petrol. That’s simply my opinion. In Alabama, one of my four sons works as an HVAC salesperson, and they use it all the time.
These days, CSST (corrugated stainless steel tubing) flex and black iron pipe are the most popular. CSST is quite simple to set up. With no couplings or nineties, a single run of pipe usually completes the connection to an appliance. Only the end fittings are included.
If CSST is your choice, I recommend TRACPIPE Counterstrike Flexible Gas Piping, which can be found on Amazon. Lightning has caused some house fires involving gas piping, which I assume is an unusual occurrence.
What is the ideal depth for a gas pipe?
Every year, the Health and Safety Executive receives several inquiries about the minimum depth at which gas mains and services should be installed. Frequently, inquiries are sparked when members of the public break pipes at home (for example, while gardening) or when contractors destroy pipes while working on domestic properties (for example when relaying driveways).
This fact sheet summarizes the legal criteria for how deep gas mains and services should be laid, as well as the safeguards that must be taken to reduce the risk of pipe damage from third-party activities. The guidelines should be regarded as minimum standards of good practice.
Minimum depth requirements
The Pipelines Safety Regulations of 1996 should be followed while designing and installing gas mains and service pipelines (PSR). The PSR does not specify the depth to which mains and services should be installed.
The Regulations are, however, backed up by HSE guidance titled “A Guide to the Pipelines Safety Regulations 1996,” as well as a Health and Safety Commission-approved code of practice and guideline titled “Design, construction, and installation of gas service pipes.”
These publications refer to the Institution of Gas Engineers’ guidance ‘IGE/TD/3 Distribution Mains’ and ‘IGE/TD/4: Gas Services,’ which prescribe the minimum depth of cover for gas mains and services to reduce the possibility of third-party damage.
Unless other appropriate steps are taken to minimize the potential of third-party damage, HSE expects mains and services to be laid at the depths stated in these publications.
- In a road or verge, a gas main should be laid with a minimum depth of cover of 750 mm, and 600 mm in a footpath.
- In private ground, a gas service pipe should be laid with a minimum depth of cover of 375 mm, and 450 mm in footpaths and highways.
These depths, however, are simply a reference and should not be used when working near gas supplies or mains. For example, once a gas main or line has been built (typically decades ago), road leveling, landscaping, and other changes to ground conditions might cause the depth of the ground cover to fluctuate over time. Also, protrusion from gas pipes, such as valves, may not be seen on designs and may have a less depth of cover than the pipe.