“Why are my animals trying to get through my electric fence? The energizer is still clicking, and it was working good in the spring.”
Morgan Renner, the Wyoming and Montana Territory Manager for Gallagher, one of the world’s leading electric fencing firms, believes this is the most frequently asked question. Checking the most ignored aspect of electric fencing: how the system is grounded, frequently solves the problem.
“There are three things to remember about your electric fence: (1) Grounding, (2) Grounding, and (3) Grounding!” he reminds his students at his many hands-on clinics.
All energizers send a pulse of energy down the fence line on a charged or ‘hot’ wire that originates from their ‘hot’ terminal. The majority of consumers are aware of this element of electric fencing. It’s self-evident that the hot wires can’t touch a steel post or be laying on the ground. What’s less clear is that when an animal comes into touch with a charged wire, its body absorbs the energy but isn’t shocked… yet.
The energy must pass from the animal’s feet through the earth, into the energizer’s ground rods, and finally into the energizer’s ground terminal to deliver a shock and consequently respect for the fence. The circuit is complete at this moment, and the animal receives the shock.
What’s wrong with adopting this approach across the majority of the west, say in July and August? You guessed correctly. THE SOIL IS EXTREMELY DRY! To complete the circuit between the animal and the energizer’s ground system, an all-hot electric fence relies entirely on proper soil moisture.
Creating a ground/hot fence
What options do we have? In the dry west, though, there is an alternate design to consider. Take the animal’s ground system all the way out to the animal. Connect the energizer’s ground terminal to the ground rods, and then make a ground wire by connecting the ground rods to a second wire in the fence line. This is referred to as a “hot/ground” electric fence.
The animal receives a shock when it bridges the space between the ‘hot’ and ‘ground’ wires while attempting to breach the barrier. Dry dirt does not obstruct the electron flow as it returns to the energizer via a conductive wire. This shock is a hundred times more powerful than one from an all-hot system that isn’t properly grounded!
For permanent electric fence systems, at least three sixfoot long galvanized steel ground rods, spaced at least 10 feet apart, are normally recommended. Consider the ground rods to be a “antenna” that collects energy to create the shock: the larger the antenna, the more powerful the shock.
Grounds made of steel poles or rebar are never enough! They’re either painted or rusted, both of which are poor conductors of electricity. Also, in the ground system, only galvanized steel should be used. Copper components, for example, might induce electrolysis, corroding the system’s connections over time. For ground rod and fence wire connections, always use a high-quality galvanized clamp.
When building this style of fence, there are a few more design issues to consider. Because we’re trying to send the shock to the animal’s face, the spacing of the fence wires becomes more crucial. What occurs when a shock is delivered to an animal’s brain? That’s correct, they usually pass through the fence. That’s not good!
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The best hot/ground wire spacing for horses, cattle, calves, and bison is 10 inches maximum, according to research and practical experience. Smaller animals, such as goats, sheep, and hogs, benefit from six-inch spacing or less.
What to do with gateways is another design consideration. Remember to carry the ground through all of your gates! You should utilize the same insulated cable to carry the hot to the other side, buried in the same trench. The ground system must be connected throughout your fence, all the way to the end, to be functional.
For both the hot and ground wires, only utilize high-voltage, direct-burial rated electric fence cable. Because of today’s high-powered energizers, any other sort of cable will burn through. Also, for the ground, avoid using bare wire because it can corrode quickly when in close touch with the soil, leaving you with an ineffective fence in less than a year. It’s no joy to have to dig up all of your gates because you ran out of supplies or neglected to carry the ground across the gate.
Consider the ground side of an electric fence to be half of the whole system. It is deserving of the same amount of attention as the hot side. Every summer, many “broken” energizers are returned to dealers when the problem was actually with the ground system, not the energizer. If you follow these simple guidelines while designing an electric fence, you’ll be able to avoid the source of more than 80% of electric fence problems in the US: insufficient ground systems!
Is it possible to utilize any wire for an electric fence?
Keep in mind that a wire with a bigger diameter has more surface area over which the electricity can pass when choosing a gauge for your electric fencing system. The lower the resistance, the larger the surface area. The most electricity can be sent by using the largest diameter wire available.
Depending on how long the fence is and what animal is being contained or repelled, most electric fences employ 14 or 17 gauge wire. Keep in mind that the smaller the wire gauge, the thicker the wire. Some of the larger animals, such as cows, bulls/bison, sheep goats, and other predators, will require a larger gauge. Smaller gauges are more suited to smaller animals such as pets, poultry, and nuisance animals.
Is it possible to ground an electric fence with copper wire?
The most common cause of electric fence energizer failure is inadequate or faulty grounding of the device, which can be affected by moist ground conditions, heavy snowfall, and spring weeds. According to James Falbo, VP of engineering at AgraTronix, makers of Power Wizard brand electric fence energizers, a properly functioning electric fence grounding system is vital for the electric current to effectively keep cattle contained and predators out.
This spring, consider these six electric fence grounding advice from Falbo to guarantee your electric fence chargers are properly grounded and working:
- During the wettest and driest seasons of the year, check your ground system and the voltage of your electric fence to ensure proper electric fence grounding of your system regardless of the conditions of your land.
- Check the voltage levels of your fence energizer with an electric fence voltmeter after correctly shorting out the electric fence.
- Use insulated lead-out wire with a 20,000V rating of 10 to 14 ga. The system cannot be supported by using only 400V residential or industrial cables.
- Make sure you’re using the right kind of rod for the grounding, such as pipe or rebar. It must be made of galvanized steel and be at least 4 feet long. Copper ground rods should not be used because they will reduce the connection’s effectiveness.
- You may need to add another grounding rod to your electric fence grounding system if the power is insufficient. Most fences will need two or three grounding rods spaced approximately 10 feet apart near the fence’s start point.
- Check to see if your ground rods are far enough away from your utilities, especially your phone lines. The rods will cause interference in your phone or electrical lines if they are too close to the utility grounds.
What is the best type of wire for electric fencing?
There are several different types of electric fence conductors available, and deciding which one to use can be difficult for those unfamiliar with the technology. This overview of the many electric fencing conductor wires, as well as the advantages of each, will assist you in selecting the most appropriate type for your application.
Electric poly tape is extremely visible, sturdy, and resistant to rust in all weather conditions. It comes in a variety of colors (white, brown, and green), making it simple to find one that matches your needs. White tape stands out better against green foliage or a brown terrain, but brown or green tape stands out better against snow.
Electric poly tape comes in three distinct widths: 12, 20, and 40mm, each of which is better suited to particular uses. The 40-mm tape is recommended for perimeter fences because of its improved visibility and strength, but it is not the ideal solution in locations with strong winds; in these cases, poly rope would be a better choice for perimeter fencing.
The 20 or 12-mm tape is ideal for usage in windy places because its thinner width provides less resistance to winds and hence is less likely to be damaged by wind. The price of poly tape is affected by its width, with wider tape costing more.
Although electric poly wire fencing is not as strong as steel wire fencing, it does not corrode and is more apparent to animals. It’s better for containing animals that don’t move very fast, like sheep or cattle, rather than horses, which move quite swiftly. Because it comes on a reel, it’s a practical option for temporary fence solutions like strip grazing, as well as a cost-effective way to divide pastures.
Electric poly rope fencing is substantially thicker than poly wire and is reinforced with stainless steel braided throughout the rope, making it both durable and efficient. It’s available in a variety of colors to make it more noticeable, and it won’t rust like poly tape. Poly rope is ideal for constructing perimeter fencing to keep horses contained because of its high strength and conductivity. It is the finest choice for perimeter fence in windy circumstances due to its substantially smaller profile than 40-mm poly tape.
If you want to build permanent barriers across a big region, electrified high-tensile wire fencing may be your best option. High-tensile wire fencing isn’t suited for fast-moving animals, such as horses, because wire fences don’t yield like poly tape or poly rope fences. Horses could suffer catastrophic injury if they run into the wire at high speeds.
There are two types of high-tensile wire: galvanized steel and aluminum. Both are sturdy, long-lasting, and low-maintenance, making them ideal for erecting perimeter fences to keep slow animals contained. Galvanized steel is a cost-effective alternative for transporting an electric charge across large distances. Aluminum has higher conductivity four times that of galvanized steel and is typically covered by a lifetime warranty. It is, nevertheless, more expensive than steel wire.
Electric fencing is a practical and cost-effective way to keep cattle contained. To ensure that you have the most effective conductor for your application and save money afterwards, choose the electric wire that best matches your requirements.
Is insulated wire required for an electric fence?
All the wires you need “The word “hot” needs to be appropriately insulated. That implies the hot wire cannot come into contact with the ground through battens, posts, waratahs, or any uprights for that matter.
This would bring the loop to a close “Shorten the fence.” When it rains, wood posts or battens become wet and carry electricity. The Waratahs are always conducting.
As a result, plastic insulators are employed to keep the hot wire away from any potential ground contact.
Is it possible to utilize wire rope as an electric fence?
Perimeter fences can be built with either of these materials. Steel wire and aluminum are also suitable materials for a permanent fence line, but they are not required when erecting a dog fence. The following are some factors to think about when choosing a voltage for your electric fence. The kind of animal you’re holding.
Is bailing wire suitable for use as an electric fence?
When it comes to animal or stock control, barbed wire should never be used for an electric fence. When an animal or stock becomes entangled in barbed wire and is subjected to repeated electric fence shocks, it can experience severe stress and possibly death. To keep the live electric fence wires away from the barbed wire and reduce the risk of entanglement and stock harm, use Out-Rigger or Offset Electric Fence Insulators (300mm or 30cm offset).
What happens if an electric fence isn’t grounded?
So, how exactly does a grounded fence function? When an animal comes into contact with an electrically charged fence wire, it feels the current as it flows through its body. The charge then completes the circuit by passing through the dirt, up the ground wire, and into the ground terminal charger.
The passage of electric current cannot be completed if the animal and the ground terminal charger are not appropriately grounded, and your animal will not feel the shock. Because the soil contributes half of the electric field circuit, having a correctly installed ground circuit is critical.
Always electrify the top strand while wiring an electric horse fence. The strand beneath that should be used as a ground wire. Add and electrify strands as needed to meet your containment requirements – three for mares and geldings, up to five for stallions.
Is it possible to utilize rebar as an electric fence grounding rod?
Make sure you’re using the right kind of grounding rod. Pipe or rebar can be used in most circumstances. For best results, the grounding rod should be constructed of galvanized steel and should be at least four feet long. The overall effectiveness of the electrical fence system would be harmed if copper rods are used.
It may be essential to add extra grounding rods to the grounding system in some circumstances. In reality, the vast majority of electrical fence systems will necessitate the use of at least three grounding rods. These rods should be spaced about 10 feet apart and installed at the beginning of the fence.
Grounding rods can interfere with phone service and electrical wires that may be present on the site. As a result, grounding rods should be placed as far away from utilities as practicable. This is particularly true when it comes to phone lines!
Is it necessary for an electric fence to make a complete loop?
“Does an electric fence have to make a complete loop?” is a frequently asked question.
No, an electric fence does not have to construct a complete circuit. Completing the fence loop, on the other hand, has benefits and drawbacks.
Because electricity is pushed in both ways, creating a continuous loop will raise the voltage on the fence line. In essence, voltage only has to travel half the distance in a continuous loop.
Even though higher voltage is desirable, installing a continuous loop makes fault finding a fence line more difficult. Because voltage travels in both directions, a digital fault finder cannot distinguish between right and left to indicate the location of an amperage drop.
Finally, only do a complete loop if it’s absolutely necessary and you’re trying to raise the voltage on the fence line.