Place two 12-volt batteries in an enclosed space next to the electric fence controller, one in front of the other. Make that the positive and negative terminals of the batteries are on the same side and next to each other. Place both positive terminals on the left or right, for example.
Is it possible to run an electric fence on a car battery?
Yes, but it is not advised because automobile batteries and leisure batteries are very different. A car battery will give out a lot of electricity in the first few days, but will steadily lose power over the following weeks, making the fence less effective until the battery is completely depleted. They will need to be charged more frequently, and charging a battery while it is still charged will reduce the battery’s life expectancy. A leisure battery has a ‘deep discharge,’ which means it produces a consistent output for weeks at a time before gradually losing its remaining power over a few days until it is totally depleted. These batteries usually have warning lights on them to let you know how charged they are.
Yes. Even when sitting on the grass, batteries will slowly discharge to earth, thus the higher you can keep them from the ground, the better. The battery’s charge will last a little longer if it is resting on a short length of plywood that is resting on a couple of blocks of wood.
We normally recommend folks to their nearest caravan / camping outlet or sometimes a small garage where they stock them because they are full of acid and few carriers like to move them (and those that do charge a lot).
Electric fencing is less expensive and requires less maintenance, as well as being a completely distinct form of barrier. While a traditional fence acts as a physical barrier to an animal, an electric fence acts as a psychological barrier since the animal gets shocked and rapidly learns that coming into touch with the wire is unpleasant.
Yes. When fencing horses, electric fencing is ideal since they quickly learn to appreciate it and stay away from it. A horse will also not rub against the fence, which could cause harm to both the horse and the fence.
Certainly not. Because barbed wire can catch on an animal’s hair or skin, it could inflict injury if it were electrified, as the animal would yank away from the electric fence when it was shocked, damaging any hair or skin that came into touch with the barb. Instead, create a powered line along the top of the fence using distance insulators and a piece of electric wire or rope.
There may be just enough voltage on your fence to cause a shock but not enough to register on a voltage tester if there is a fault. Examine the installation to ensure that all connections are secure and that there is no power leakage to the ground, which is most often caused by damaged insulators or vegetation touching the line.
The most likely reason is an earthing fault. It is more difficult for the electric fence current to return to the energiserand complete the circuit in dry weather than it is when it is wet. When putting up an electric fence, it’s preferable to place the earth stake somewhere that won’t dry out in the summer. Connect via a ‘lead-out’ cable another earthstake a few meters away from the first.
Electric fencing stakes are always galvanised so that they don’t corrode underground, as rust would prevent the electricity from returning to the energiser, making the fence less effective.
No. The pulse is every second or two and lasts only a fraction of a second, so when an animal experiences a snap, it jerks for a split second before the current stops. Nobody will acquire a reaction that binds them to the wire if they touch it – that only happens in cartoons!
Yes. Energisers are quite rare to go wrong. We’d only had two in the previous two years, one of which was a lightning strike and the other of which went submerged. Both were sent away for new wiring to be fitted, and they are now operational. We don’t carry new circuits as standard because the brands we carry are among the best and most dependable on the market.
There are two types of solar panels available for electric fencing. There are those that are touted as being suitable for “three seasons” and are effective in the summer, competent in the spring and autumn, and unreliable in the winter. These are expensive, ranging from $40 to $100, and will not provide you with peace of mind that your fence is adequately charged. The other variety is excellent and manufactured to a high standard, although they start at roughly $200 and go up to $400. They’re excellent and dependable, but most folks have an old car battery that they can charge and install overnight while the leisure battery is recharged.
How long can an electric fence be powered by a car battery?
Although a charge can last up to 4 – 5 weeks (depending on the consumption/power of the energiser you’re using), we recommend charging them every 2 to 3 weeks or so to keep the battery in good working order.
Is it possible to electrify a fence using a battery charger?
If the manufacturer recommends it, place the fence charger inside a weatherproof box. Some chargers are weatherproof and can be installed on a pole. Depending on the model, insert the batteries or connect the charger to external batteries. With a length of electric fence wire, connect the charger’s grounding terminal to the grounding poles. With another piece of wire, connect the charger’s positive terminal to the electric fence. Activate the charger.
What is the recommended voltage for an electric fence?
Are you having difficulty keeping livestock out of your pasture or ranch? An electrified fence could be the answer. Electric fences are a low-cost solution to permanently keep animals out of an area. Animals will be frightened when they come into contact with the fencing, remembering the shock and knowing not to trespass again.
An electric fence’s voltage should range from roughly 2000 to 10,000 volts. International rules allow for a maximum voltage of 10,000 volts. The voltage utilized is determined by the intended shock power and the maximum distance on the fence that can be shocked. A lower voltage would be employed for a longer shocking distance range. A larger voltage, on the other hand, would be employed for a more severe shock. Sparks can travel further within the animal with these higher voltages. To penetrate this layer, 2000 volts must be utilized for every 1 mm of hide your animal possesses; otherwise, the animal will not feel anything. When it comes to preventing livestock from entering a given region, a higher voltage fence will provide the best results.
When an animal is shocked, it becomes a member of the circuit, allowing the shock to travel throughout the animal. The energy will go from the wire to the animal’s feet, into the earth, and then back through ground rods. Wet and soft soil is preferable because electricity flows more freely through it.
Electric fences are a cost-effective, efficient, and practical solution to secure your property. When animals learn your fence has 10,000 volts of electricity running through it, they will think twice about where they walk. You’re going to “knock their socks off”!
In an electric fence, what kind of battery is used?
Energisers that require batteries are commonly used to power electric fences.
These batteries are typically either 12 volt or 9 volt batteries.
Smaller energisers can be powered by 6 volt or even D-cell batteries.
When the battery hits 20% capacity, most energisers will turn off or illuminate a warning light.
Please do not rely on the light on the leisure battery, as it is less reliable than the lights on the energisers.
It has a carry handle, two terminals for adding solar panels, is appropriate for outdoor usage, is entirely sealed, and requires no maintenance.
In the UK, you can attach a solar panel to the top of your 12 volt battery, which will charge the battery for the most of the year. During the darkest winter months, you’ll need to keep an eye on the battery and may need to bring it in for a few charges off the mains. The solar panel is easily clipped onto the top of the battery and placed in a sunny location facing straight south.
For an electric fence, what kind of battery do I need?
The size of fence charger required is determined by your fencing requirements. Four primary elements influence these requirements: 1. The fence’s length 2. The quantity of wires 3. Power supply (AC, DC or Solar) 4. The type of animal that is being contained or kept out.
Charger Terminology
- Low-impedance – A low-impedance fence charger has less resistance (or impedance) than a high-impedance charger, allowing more power to be sent via the wire. Low-impedance electric fence chargers are the greatest and most up-to-date technology for weed-infested land.
- Solid State Fence Chargers – Solid-state fence chargers give a medium-amperage shock in medium-duration pulses. Where light weed conditions prevail, they are best used to control shorthaired cattle, small animals, and pets.
- Continuous Output – As contrast to pulsating charges, continuous output means there is a constant charge on the hot wires. Smaller paddocks and dairy stalls should use continuous current systems.
Types of Fence Chargers
Fence energizers are classified into three categories:
- Powered by AC (Plug)
- Powered by a DC (battery) source
The type of charger you use will decide the source of electricity for the electric fence controller to function. Each sort of fence energizer has its own set of circumstances under which it is most useful.
It’s vital to choose an electric fence controller with enough power for your enclosure if you want to keep your animals secure.
This decision is influenced by a number of factors, including:
- Source of power’s location (AC, battery, or solar operated)
- Resultant energy (in joules)
- The type of animal under control
- The amount of vegetation that has grown on the fence.
Note: The AC-powered variants are the most handy if you have access to AC power. They also have a higher energy output on average. This gives you more room to grow in the future.
AC-Powered
When you have a steady source of 110-volt electrical power, AC-powered fence chargers are an excellent option. Electric fence controllers for distances up to 200 miles are available. AC electric fence chargers, in general, provide the highest output of any charger and are the most common form of fence charger used in permanent electric fence systems today.
DC-Powered (Battery Operated)
Remote places or areas without access to AC power are excellent for battery-operated fence chargers. As a power source, DC-powered chargers can use a variety of batteries, including the usual 12-volt, 6-volt, 4-volt, or D-cell. Larger batteries, on average, last longer and provide more volts.
Batteries must be purchased separately from the charger. Some batteries are rechargeable, while others must be replaced.
“How often do the batteries need to be charged?” is a popular query about battery or DC powered electric fence energizers.
The answer is that it is contingent on how many times the fence is grounded. In other words, if animals frequently touch the electric fence, or if weeds or limbs come into contact with the fence and the ground, the battery will drain faster than if the wire is clear. Animals being trained to avoid the fence are more likely to touch it during the early stages of training, causing the battery to deplete faster.
Deep cycle batteries with a voltage of 6 or 12 volts are recommended (not included with fence charger).
Note: To keep your fence secure, check and recharge your batteries on a regular basis. A voltage meter can be used for this.
Solar-Powered
Solar-powered electric fence chargers are ideal for fences in isolated regions where there is no access to an AC outlet or other power source and which require a continual output to be “hot.” Solar-powered chargers are also ideal for rotational or strip grazing systems due to their lightweight, portable nature. A battery is generally included in a solar-powered electric fence energizer for energy storage. The sun’s energy is collected by the solar panel and used to charge the battery.
Lead acid batteries, which are used in solar fence chargers, have a normal life of three years or 1,000 charging days. To provide continuous electricity for your fence, it’s a good idea to have backup gel-cell solar batteries and trickle chargers.
Choosing the Right Fence Charger
Your electric fence system’s heart is the fence charger. It’s critical to get the right charger for your fence if you want to successfully contain or exclude animals. To make sure you get the proper fence charger for your needs, consider the following factors.
- Getting your fence charger up and running. AC-power is the most recommended and reliable option. DC or solar-powered fence chargers are a fantastic solution if you need to power your fence from a remote place. Solar-powered fence chargers offer the advantages of solar-powered battery charging.
- The fence line kind. Steel wire has a lower electrical resistance than polywire, rope, or tape, which all consume more energy. We recommend a low-impedance fence controller if you’re using polyrope or tape. Steel wire has less resistance than aluminum wire.
- The number of strands of fence wire. Divide the charger’s distance rating by the number of strands for multi-wire fences as a general rule, then choose a charger with a mileage rating that fulfills those criteria. When adding more cables, always increase the power requirements.
Note: 1 square mile equals 640 acres when measured along a four-mile circumference. Remember that polywire, rope, and tape have a greater resistance rating and, as a result, will require a charger with a longer range.
- The number of weeds. The more weeds that contact your fence line, the more power your charger will draw. We recommend a low impedance fence controller if you have light to medium to heavy weeds near your fence since it can sustain high energy on the fence even if weeds suck electricity.
- To enclose a space. Consider the option of widening your fence’s perimeter (which may require a more powerful charger). The mileage rating on chargers is for a single strand of steel wire on a weed-free fence.
- Controlled animal species. A stronger shock is required for large animals with thicker hide, hair, hooves, or foot pads. Furthermore, more aggressive animals, such as bulls or stallions, necessitate a stronger fence charger.
Installing Your Fence Charger
A complete installation manual is included with each fence charger. Individual components also come with “how-to instructions” to help you put your fence system together.
If you’re installing a fence charger, make sure it’s:
- Protected from the elements (excluding solar chargers), either indoors in a dry environment or outdoors in a weatherproof enclosure.
- In close proximity to a 110-volt AC power source (unless battery or solar powered).
- Accessible to a separate ground rod system from the building or grounding rods utilized by other systems or structures.
Using a screw or nail through the hanger hole in the charger case, raise the fence charger off the ground. Using insulated ground wire, connect the ground wire to the ground terminal and ground rods. Using 20,000-volt (or greater) hook up wire, connect the fence terminal to the fence wire.
Is it necessary for an electric fence to make a complete loop?
“Does an electric fence have to make a complete loop?” is a frequently asked question.
No, an electric fence does not have to construct a complete circuit. Completing the fence loop, on the other hand, has benefits and drawbacks.
Because electricity is pushed in both ways, creating a continuous loop will raise the voltage on the fence line. In essence, voltage only has to travel half the distance in a continuous loop.
Even though higher voltage is desirable, installing a continuous loop makes fault finding a fence line more difficult. Because voltage travels in both directions, a digital fault finder cannot distinguish between right and left to indicate the location of an amperage drop.
Finally, only do a complete loop if it’s absolutely necessary and you’re trying to raise the voltage on the fence line.
Is it possible to build an electric fence out of PVC pipe?
To install an electric fence, use rigid pvc tubing. The wire is held in place by a cotter pin and goes through a hole he drills at the top. “According to Larson, pvc posts are superior than steel posts because they are smaller and more flexible. “If a deer runs into them, the fence will not fall down or the wire will not come off.
How much electricity does an electric fence use?
Despite the fact that AC chargers are hooked into an electrical outlet, don’t expect a hefty power bill. AC chargers are typically passive devices that only require a little amount of energy on a daily basis. Most users will notice a negligible change in their energy consumption, which will equal to less than a dollar over the course of a month.
If you want to try your hand at the math, here’s the formula:
- Killowatt Hours Utilized per Month = (The charger’s watts per day x days used per month)/1,000
Then you simply multiply that number by the result above to find out how much your electric company charges you per kilowatt hour.
Here’s an illustration:
- The average Zareba fence charger consumes approximately 33 watts per day. So 33 watts times 31 days is 1,023. That equals 1.023 kilowatt hours per month when multiplied by 1,000.
The average cost of a kilowatt hour in the United States is 12 cents. The cost of running that electric charger for the entire month is 3 cents if we multiplied 1.023 by 12 cents (.12).