The Planar Diesel Heaters are designed to deliver rapid heat to the interiors of vehicles, vans, lorries, motorhomes, sailboats, powerboats, and yachts.
The air for the heater’s internal combustion process is collected through an exterior intake pipe in a diesel air heater. It’s then injected into the heater’s combustion chamber, where it’s mixed with diesel and fired automatically to heat a wide surface area of a heat exchanger. The cool air from the cabin will subsequently be drawn past the heat exchanger by an internal blower. It is heated there before being blown back into the cabin. Through an exhaust pipe, the combustion exhaust gas is evacuated to the outside.
How long will a diesel heater run on a gallon of fuel?
Uno de los temas ms calientes en todas las construcciones de van es el calor (pun intended). Si ests buscando nieve o no, vas a estar en condiciones de tener unas temperaturas fras por la noche. That’s exactly where the Espar Airtronic D2 Heater comes in taking you from shivery nights of sleep to comfortable home-like warmth.
El calentador Espar Airtronic D2 es el ms popular para las conmutaciones de camiones entre los calentadores diesel de Espar. He tenido experiencia directa con el Espar D2 como fuente primaria de calor (en combinacin con un excelente aislamiento), que discuto en profundidad en mi gua de construccin de vans.
Aunque su van puede tener una variedad de fuentes de calor, veamos qu nos gusta de esta.
Single Fuel Source
One of the most important criteria in determining whether or not to use a Diesel Heater in your van is the desire to have a single fuel source. The Espar D2 Heater is a wonderful option if you don’t want to carry around extra gas to power a heater.
You won’t run out of fuel
When using your van’s single fuel source to also heat it, one of your biggest concerns is running out of fuel.
Thankfully, the Espar Heater is built to prevent this from happening. The Espar Heater pickup will no longer pull diesel out once the fuel tank is a bit less than a quarter tank.
Dry fuel source
This diesel heater, unlike other heat sources, is a dry fuel source, which means it won’t allow moisture to build up within the van.
Because propane is a damp heat source, condensation in the van is a possibility.
Convenience
This heater has an automatic temperature control system and comes with a hand-held controller that you can plug into your control panel. It’s as simple as pressing a button to turn the heat on or off and regulate the temperature.
Service Availability
Because the Espar Heater is so ubiquitous, it can easily be serviced by any truck mechanic or repair facility. When you’re on the road and want some extra peace of mind, this is a plus.
It’s a DIY Project
While the components and instructions within the box may seem overwhelming, installing the Espar Heater is a simple task. You can easily save $1000-$2000 and use that money for other elements of the project with a little effort, patience, and study.
Check out our Van Build Guide if you need some more assistance with the installation process.
It doesn’t take up any usable space
The heater is usually situated beneath the van’s driver or passenger seat. It doesn’t take up any usable inside room, unlike other propane and portable heaters, which is always a high requirement for van occupants.
Takes less fuel to heat your van
Because diesel has a higher energy density than propane, it will need less fuel to heat your vehicle. This heater can run for 24 hours on a single gallon of diesel, which is extremely efficient.
Installation
The Espar’s instructions are clearly intended for professionals. We believe the Espar installation can be a terrific DIY effort based on our experience. It is, however, more time consuming to install than some other heat source options.
Annual Cleaning and Maintenance
Due to carbon accumulation, diesel heaters need to be cleaned once a year. Also, if you don’t use the heater for a long time (for example, a complete summer), it will start up dirty, so clean it out before using it for the first time.
Espar D2 vs D4
You might be asking why the Espar D2 is preferred over the Espar D4. In short, the Espar D4 is overpowered for the vehicle, and it won’t be used at high boost levels very often. This implies that the extra gasoline that goes into the heater is not burned. That extra fuel will collect inside the heater, clogging it up with soot and unburned fuel, causing a slew of problems and requiring a lot of maintenance.
The D2 runs at high output on a regular basis, keeping the heater nice and toasty and ready to burn the fuel cleanly.
Looking to camp at high altitudes?
Upgrade to the high altitude kit if you plan on doing any camping at altitudes of 5,000 feet or higher. As you gain altitude, the concentration of oxygen decreases, resulting in a fuel-to-oxygen ratio that is overly high in fuel, producing problems with your Espar D2.
Final word of advice
Because the Espar is a combustion heater, we strongly advise you to install a Carbon Monoxide detector to alert you to any pollutants that may enter the vehicle.
What is the operation of a 12 volt diesel heater?
As previously stated, the differences between a diesel air heater and a diesel water heater are minor.
Nonetheless, it’s critical to understand what distinguishes them and what they have in common.
This, I feel, will assist you in deciding which type of heater to choose from these two possibilities.
How does Diesel Air Heater vs. Diesel Water Heater Work?
A diesel air heater works by bringing in fresh air from outside and mixing it with fuel (diesel).
After that, the mixture is ignited to generate heat, which is subsequently dissipated from the heater into the surrounding environment.
In contrast, a diesel water heater heats water from the vehicle’s reservoir to provide hot water or steam.
The steam then passes via a heat exchanger, dissipating heat that is subsequently dispersed to the outside environment.
The hot water also travels to the engine, warming it up to prevent cold starts.
Diesel Air Heater vs. Diesel Water Heater Similarities
- You have a variety of control choices for both. This implies that whether you buy an air or water heater, you’ll be able to operate it with a smartphone, a remote, or a timer.
- Their structures are frequently identical, with the exception that the latter substitutes air with water.
Diesel Air Heater vs. Diesel Water Heater Differences
To be honest, the distinction between a diesel air heater and a diesel water heater is minor.
Fuel is mixed with air from the vehicle’s interior to generate heat in the diesel air heater.
The hot air is then forced into the heat exchanger, where it is dispersed into the surrounding environment by the blower fan.
When air and water mix in a diesel water heater, heat is generated when the combination is ignited by the ignition plug.
The blower fan extracts the heat from the hot water and blows it into the surrounding surroundings.
This water will also go to the vehicle/engine, vessel’s heating it and eliminating the possibility of a cold start.
The water heater heats both the interior and the engine of the car, whereas the diesel air heater simply heats the vehicle’s interior atmosphere.
Another distinction between these two types of diesel heaters is the installation process.
The diesel air heater can be installed in the vehicle/marine vessel’s cabin or chassis.
This is because all it need for combustion is air from the outside environment.
On the other hand, a diesel water heater must be installed in the engine compartment of your vehicle/vessel.
Because the heater will need to use the vehicle’s water circuit system to generate heat, this is the case.
You can use the water heater to raise the temperature in your vehicle and warm up your engine in the winter.
Essentially, this is all there is to know about diesel air heaters and diesel water heaters.
Consider the advantages and disadvantages of these two types of heaters and select the one that best meets your needs.
Is it necessary to use electricity with a diesel heater?
Diesel heaters are powered by the vehicle’s main diesel tank as well as a recreational battery or an electric source.
They’re common in larger cars since they can have both hot air and hot water systems.
If you’re camping all year and want to take a hot shower, this is a great option!
A typical diesel heater uses 0.1 litres of diesel per hour as a rough estimate. It’s worth noting that the heater only consumes fuel when combustion is taking place.
The thermostatic controls and the fan both require 12 volts of power.
The consumption varies depending on the heating power required and the type of heater; as a general rule, it ranges from 10 to 50 watts.
The lowest wattage your electrical input must be in order for the heating to work is specified in the user handbook.
Most diesel (and gas) heaters warm the air with a heat exchanger before blowing it around the vehicle with a 12v fan. Without entering the car, the air required for combustion and exhaust is routed directly from the outside into the sealed combustion chamber and then back out. It is critical, as usual, to ensure that all safety criteria are met when installing. (See this blog’s safety section!)
Cons of diesel heating in campervans
- They (usually) consume more electricity than a gas heater. If you have solar panels, this can be offset.
- Webasto heaters range in price from 800 to 2000, depending on the KW output.
- Alternative models, such as this one, are becoming more popular, but if you’re fitting yourself, be wary of the dangers of buying from abroad.
- You could find that you need to translate a lot of Chinese instructions…
Simon, the previous owner of Quirky Camper, solved many of these concerns by putting a different type of diesel stove in his Mercedes Vito campervan conversion. It’s called a Refleks 66MK, and it resembles a wood stove but functions more like an AGA, with a convenient stealth mode!
Is it safe to use a diesel heater?
Diesel heaters are commonly utilized and are thought to be extremely safe. They, like LPG heaters, include an auto-shutdown feature if the system temperature rises above a safe working threshold.
What happens if the fuel in a diesel heater runs out?
This troubleshooting guide is designed for the brands we sell, Eberspacher and Belief, but it may also be used for other heater manufacturers as a general approach to troubleshoot a heater that won’t start.
To figure out how to start re-starting your diesel heater, look over the descriptions below.
- Go to Section A if the heater control is dead and nothing happens when any of the buttons are pressed.
- If the heater turns on, blasts cold air, and tries to start for about 6 minutes but does not, and then displays either E10 (Belief digital controller) or Error 53 Eberspacher D2 (Belief rotary controller), go to section B.
- Go to Section C if the heater turns on but the fan hardly spins, or spins briefly and then stops, and an error code is displayed (digital control) or the red LED flashes an error code (rotary controller). (On the digital controller, an error code will be “E” followed by a number.) The red LED on the rotary controller will flash 1 to 8 times with a pause between groups of flashes).
- Go to section D if the heater was running and then stopped, displaying an error code (digital control) or flashing red LEDs (rotary controller).
- Go to Section E if the heater is on but not speeding up, just running slowly all the time regardless of the power setting.
- Go to section F if the heater is on but emitting smoke or a diesel odor.
- Make that the fuse is in good working order. Remove it and test or replace it. The fuse should be near your battery, in the main cables.
- Examine all of the plugs and connections. Connections can come loose due to rough roads or the movement of other items you’re transporting. Trace the heater’s wires to the battery. Make sure all of the connectors are closed and secure. Check to see if the electricity comes back on by jiggling things around.
- Examine the plugs for any dislodged pins. The small metal pins in the plugs might sometimes push back, resulting in a weak contact. Check that each wire coming into each connector has a metal pin that is fully pushed forward in the plug by dismantling the connectors.
- The heater’s main loom plug should be disconnected. On 2.2kW and 4kW heaters, this is outside the heater, while on 2kW heaters, it is inside the top of the heater. After the main supply wires have been disconnected, use a multimeter to check the voltage on the main supply wires by inserting the probe into the main loom socket near the thick black and red or black and brown wires. Continue looking for the break if there is no power.
If the heater turns on, blasts cold air, and tries to start for about 6 minutes but fails, the error code E10 (Belief digital controller) or the red LED flashes constantly with no pauses (Belief rotary controller) or Error 53 Eberspacher D2 will be shown.
The most likely causes of heaters not starting is no fuel, insufficient power or no air flow.
Please check these issues by following the instructions below. Between efforts to start the heater, remember to remove and replace the fuse.
- To rule out low battery voltage, make sure your batteries are completely charged, connected to electricity, or connected to a battery charger.
- Make sure the heater is connected directly to the battery with the original wiring loom that was supplied with it. If the heater is connected to the battery through any fuse boxes, existing wiring, or switches, disconnect everything and connect directly to the battery, making that the supplied fuse is still in place.
- If the wiring loom has been extended, ensure that it has been done so with 6mm2 wire and that the connection has been properly soldered. Heaters, especially in cold weather, require a lot of electricity to start, hence this heavy-duty wire is required.
When the heater is attempting to start, use a multimeter to measure the voltage at the heater. When the heater is turned on, it will draw roughly 6-10A. It is critical to measure when the heater is turned on because glow plug load will cause voltage drop in the wires or battery, and if the voltage is below 12.5V at the heater, the heater will be difficult to start. Access to measure the voltage can be difficult; in some circumstances, the multi-meter probes can be inserted into the back of the heater main connector plug, while in others, a small part of the insulation on the cables must be scraped back (this must be repaired later).
If the cabling is incorrect, make the necessary repairs and try to restart the heater. If the heater has a satisfactory power supply voltage over 12.5V at the time of startup and still won’t start, proceed to the Fuel section below.
It can take up to 6-8 complete start cycles to purge the fuel line of air and get fuel into the heater if the heater is new or has run out of fuel. A start cycle lasts roughly 6 minutes and consists of the heater making two tries to start before locking out.
- Remove the fuse and replace it if the heater has locked out and the controller is signaling failure to start (Belief error 10 on digital or flashing red LED on manual controller, Eberspacher flashing LED on controller). Restart the heater and repeat the process up to eight times.
- If you’ve tried to start the heater eight times and it still won’t turn on, unplug the gasoline line from the heater’s bottom and have someone turn it on for you. Each time you hear the fuel pump tick, roughly 1/4 teaspoon of diesel should come out of the fuel line. If there is no fuel, proceed to the next section, Fuel Fault Finding. Replace the fuel line if fuel is being delivered to the heater; otherwise, skip Fuel Fault Finding and proceed to Air and Exhaust.
You have no fuel flow to the heater if you remove the fuel line from the heater and no fuel flows out when the pump ticks. Check the following, and then re-check the fuel flow by turning on the heater with the fuel line unplugged and observing if about 1/4 teaspoon of fuel comes out of the fuel line each time the pump ticks.
- Check that your gasoline tank is not more than 2 meters below the fuel pump if this is a new installation. This is the allowed limit for the fuel pump to suck up the fuel.
- Check to see if your gasoline tank is full. If you’re in a motorhome with fuel coming from the main vehicle tank, make sure it’s at least 1/4 full, as fuel pickups don’t always go all the way to the bottom.
- Make sure your fuel isn’t expired. If you have a white plastic tank, sunlight can cause algae to grow in the fuel, which can cause the fuel lines to become clogged. Drain your tank and lines if this happens, then replace the fuel tank.
- Examine all of the fuel lines that link the tank to the fuel pump. Even the tiniest air leak on the pump’s input side will allow air into the fuel line, preventing gasoline flow. After you’ve double-checked all of the connections, retest for gasoline flow.
- If steps 1, 2, 3, and 4 don’t work, check for obstructions in the fuel line and filter by disconnecting the fuel line from the pump inlet and allowing petrol to drain from the tank through it (if the tank is above the line). Test until you are certain that petrol can pass through the fuel line in one manner or another.
Reconnect the fuel line and re-start the heater if there is now fuel flow to it.
Remove the air inlet and exhaust pipes from the bottom of the heater to make sure they aren’t obstructed if the heater has fuel and a good source of power but still won’t start.
After removing the air input and exhaust pipes, try starting the heater a few times. If the heater starts after these pipes have been removed, clean the inlet pipe with water or a hose and inspect your exhaust. You should replace it if it is dark and full of carbon. Wash it out and put it back on if it’s just full of mud.
The error code on the digital controller for Belief heaters will be “E” and a number. The red LED on the rotary controller will flash between 1 and 13 times, with a gap in between flashes.
You may load error codes into Eberspacher heaters by holding down the power button until the light flashes, after which the error codes will appear on the screen.
Remove the fuse (which should be near the battery) and replace it before restarting the heater to clear the issue.
Reset the heater by removing the fuse and following the steps in Section A above if the error code is E10 (digital) or the LED blinks once per second (evenly with no pauses) on a rotary control.
If your heater starts up but doesn’t speed up or shuts down after a while, the inlet air temperature is likely over 30 degrees and the heater is overheating. The heater will not speed up in this circumstance, and if the inlet temperature rises too high, it will shut down with an error code. This is standard procedure. Diesel heaters aren’t meant to work in extreme heat. Re-test your heater when it is cool in the morning.
Check that there isn’t a lot of uninsulated hot air ducting in the same cavity as the heater if the ambient temperature isn’t over 30 degrees. The real air entering into the heater can reach 30 degrees even though the room air temperature is below 30 degrees if it is preheated by the hot ducting. Check this by opening the cavity where the heater is situated and observing if it works. If this does not resolve the problem, you will need to insulate the ducting, improve the ventilation in the hollow, or install inlet air ducting on the heater.
If your heater was having difficulties starting and ultimately started, it may smoke for a while as the remaining unburned fuel is burned off.
If your heater is constantly smoking, make sure the air inlet and exhaust aren’t partially obstructed.
- Remove the heater, pack it in bubble wrap and cardboard, and mail it in a 5kg pre-paid air bag to PO Box 288 Cygnet 7112.